I’d been daydreaming about this for three years. Every time I scrolled through Instagram and saw those pictures of bikes leaning against barren mountain roads, skies stretching out forever, I’d feel it. I had to go. So finally, this June, I stopped thinking and booked my Leh Ladakh bike trip from Delhi.
The plan was simple: 10 days, a Royal Enfield Classic 350, and over 3,000 kilometres through some of the toughest, most beautiful terrain in India.
Day 1-2: Delhi to Manali – The Warm-Up
Starting from Delhi at 4 AM was brutal. The roads were empty, which was brilliant for getting out of the city chaos quickly. I’d rented a Royal Enfield from Karol Bagh; INR 1,500 per day seemed reasonable for what I was about to put the bike through.
I had a smooth ride to Chandigarh. Good highways, decent traffic. But now came the litmus test: the ascent to Manali. Those narrow winding mountain roads had already given me a taste of what was to come. I reached Manali in the evening, dead tired but immensely excited.
Stayed the night at a guesthouse in Old Manali. INR 800 for a comfortably simple room with a view overlooking the mountains. It was no luxury, but it suited the purpose.
Day 3: Manali to Jispa – Reality Hits Hard
This is where my Leh Ladakh bike trip from Delhi got properly challenging. The Rohtang Pass at 13,050 feet was my first real taste of high-altitude riding. The bike started struggling a bit with the thin air, and so did I.
The road from Rohtang to Keylong was mental. Dirt, rocks, water crossings. My clean Royal Enfield from Delhi was already looking like it had been through a war. But the scenery? Absolutely mental. Nothing prepares you for those views.
Reached Jispa around 6 PM. Tiny village, basic accommodation, but the warmest dal-chawal I’ve ever had in my life. Sometimes simple food tastes amazing when you’re exhausted and grateful.
Day 4: Jispa to Sarchu – The Middle of Nowhere
Started early because everyone warned me about this stretch. The road to Sarchu is rough, and the weather can change in minutes. They weren’t lying.
Crossed Baralacha La at 16,040 feet. The bike was coughing a bit, but she kept going like a proper Royal Enfield should. The landscape here is completely alien, as if riding on Mars. No trees, no grass, just rocks and sky for miles.
Sarchu is basically a collection of tents in the middle of nowhere. Slept in a tent camp for INR 1,200 per night, including meals. The food was basic but filling. Had to use shared toilets, which weren’t great, but you adjust quickly.
Day 5: Sarchu to Leh – The Big One
This day broke me and rebuilt me. The stretch from Sarchu to Leh includes some of the highest motorable roads in the world. Tanglang La at 17,582 feet is no joke. At 5,328 metres, this pass tests both your bike and your lungs.
The bike struggled massively at this altitude. Had to stop every 20 minutes to let the engine cool down and catch my breath. But when you reach the top and see the signboard, the feeling is mad. You’ve actually done it.
The descent into Leh was beautiful but scary. Those hairpin bends require full concentration. Reached Leh city around 4 PM, completely exhausted but properly chuffed with myself.
Day 6-7: Leh – Rest and Acclimatisation
Spent two days in Leh just recovering and getting used to the altitude. The city is brilliant, having proper Tibetan culture mixed with Indian chaos. Visited the Leh Palace, walked around the main market, and ate some amazing momos.
Stayed at a guesthouse near the main market for INR 1,000 per night. Basic but clean, with hot water, which felt like luxury after the tent camps.
Day 8: Khardung La – The World’s Highest Motorable Road
At 18,379 feet, Khardung La sits high up in the Ladakh region of the Indian Himalayas, around 40 km from Leh. It’s known as one of the riskiest motorable roads in the country. And I knew I had to ride through it.
The ride up was horrifying and incredible at once. The road itself is quite scary because it is narrow and has huge drops on one side. But reaching the top felt like winning the World Cup. The signboard photos are mandatory, obviously.
The descent was worse than going up. Your brakes work overtime, and the thin air makes everything feel more intense. Made it back to Leh safely but with massive respect for that mountain.
Day 9: Leh to Keylong – Heading Back
Started the return journey feeling properly confident. The bike had performed brilliantly throughout, with barely any issues despite the punishment I’d given it. Royal Enfields are built for this stuff.
The ride back felt different. I knew what to expect now. The mountain passes didn’t scare me as much. I actually enjoyed the scenery more instead of just trying to survive it.
Day 10: Keylong to Delhi – The Long Haul Home
The last leg home was bittersweet. I wanted to remain in those mountains forever, but I was also looking forward to a good shower and my bed.
The drive from the mountains to the plains was weird. Suddenly, there were trees again, and the air was thick by the standards I had grown accustomed to. Got to Delhi around 10 pm, proper exhausted but buzzing.
The Numbers Game
Total distance: Roughly 3,200 kilometres in 10 days. For fuel cost itself, estimate about INR 7,000-8,000 if your bike gives 35 km per litre. My Royal Enfield did a little less because of the altitude and rough roads.
Cost of the trip: Approximately INR 35,000, including bike rent, fuel, food and stay. Not inexpensive, but worth every rupee.
Final Thoughts
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat… In fact I’m already planning next year’s trip, maybe with a bunch of mates. The mountains and the feeling of accomplishment have kind of become addictive.
So if you’re considering this trip, stop considering and start planning. Yes, it’s challenging. Yes, it’s expensive. But it’s also one of those things that shapes you. You return, bursting with a confidence that you can conquer whatever life tosses in your direction.
Your phone won’t capture half of it in pictures, but you’ll have the memories forever. Sometimes you have to hit the factory reset button on life to remember what you’re made of. It was a trip that accomplished that for me.
